Grade Scale Information

The C-Scale is one of the most straightforward and universally used systems for grading action figures and is commonly used by eBay sellers and traders when selling new and second-hand action figures. Until the rise of professional grading companies, it was generally accepted as “the standard.” Many important factors contribute to a figure’s grade and value, including:

• The figures condition
• The backing card
• Loose, MOC, or MIB
• Is it complete with accessories
• Free of dents, scratches, marks, etc

All stock sold in ASC is collector-grade quality, meaning it complies with the C Scale assessment, meeting the minimum requirements for collectors. We guarantee this based on our staff’s many years of collector item appraisal and stand by our reviews. Suppose an item is deemed below an acceptable collector standard. In that case, it is listed as damaged or substandard stock and is suitable for opening and display. It needs to be considered an acceptable level of packaging to warrant assessment. If you feel your item needs to be collector quality, frankly, you are incorrect and need to familiarise yourself with the collector grading and assessment criteria; continue reading to enlighten yourself.

However, we need to define some terminology before we go any further. Firstly, regardless of condition, all figures are collector-grade figures; it depends on the type of collector you are and the item’s rarity. The terms Mint on Card (MOC) and Mint in Box (MIB) are not grading terms. They are descriptors that say a new or old stock item is still on a card or in a box. These are effectively mute terms in the collector grading scale; they identify the product.

Secondly, the expectation is a collector’s most significant enemy when purchasing an item. Perfection does not exist; the world is full of flaws, and so is everything in it. Familiarizing themselves with the grading scales will help collectors assess what they are looking for in the things they collect. Refrain from paying reject store prices and getting a collector grade item, this is the real world, and you need to manage your expectations. Perfection is the mythical beast, but we can get close occasionally, and you will pay for it. If all you are is a completionist that likes figures in good displayable condition, you will be able to achieve this at a reasonable price point, and if you are a collector that wants to feel the toy in their hands, then you are one of the lucky ones. The backing card or box condition is one of the most critical factors in determining an action figure’s grade or value.

Most collectors are looking for MOC (Mint On Card) or MIB (Mint in Box) figures with limited packaging damage. This is where the grading process is critical to the value. A figure said to be MOC is presumed to be in a Mint or Near Mint condition. However, its value could decrease considerably if the card or box is damaged and in poor condition, particularly on older or rarer figures. (so figure in the box mint or near mint, the box maybe not so)

Most modern-day collectors generally look for MOC (Mint On Card), or MIB (Mint In Box) figures. However, some older vintage action figures are still highly sought after, even loose, particularly:

• p(. Mego figures
• Early Kenner figures, and
• Rare and obscure figures that have gained a cult following over the years

This is because, before the mid-seventies, the hobby was still in its infancy. Most figures were open, played with, and then binned, so only some are available in high-grade condition especially carded or the original packaging. Of course, even kids are more aware of their collectability and value and often treasure and protect their figures.

Another important factor in valuing your figures is the supply-to-demand ratio. We will concentrate on grading your figures here because accurately loving them is an entirely different ball game. Grading and valuing loose figures is another area with problems and pitfalls, so I will only deal with how to grade carded figures here. However, as a rule of thumb, a Mint 10 (highest possible grade) loose figure will be valued at approximately 40% of its MOC value if it is a genuine Mint 10 figure. It may seem a little strange to new collectors that the backing card is deemed necessary in the grading of the statistics but it is simply because if the backing card is in Mint 10 Condition, then the figure inside is also assumed to be.

Up until recently, the most popular grading system was the Condition Scale or C Scale, which was pretty much universally accepted as the standard, but with the increasing popularity of the hobby, several professional grading services have sprung up; one of the most popular of these is the Action Figure Authority (AFA), who use their grading system. The AFA system has now become widely accepted and recognized by collectors, so much so that a figure bearing an AFA grade will often sell for 2-3 times more than the equivalent ungraded figure. It has replaced the old C Scale System.

The cost is the biggest drawback of a professional grading service such as AFA. Ultimately it should be considered an investment because the return and the increased value of a graded figure far outweigh its cost. AFA Gold-graded figures have been known to fetch as much as ten times the price of ungraded figures on eBay!

With the C Scale system, a C10 is the highest grade and is generally for a carded figure that is assumed to have no flaws or imperfections whatsoever. No matter how minor and the carded figure, any defect can no longer be considered MINT C10. A C10 grade is, therefore, scarce, as even a figure that has come straight from the manufacturer in a factory sealed case will often have slight imperfections, such as sun damage, discoloration or fading, etc.

Often a lower grade will be given because the backing card is in poor condition, but this doesn’t necessarily mean the action figure is in poor condition. Most dealers or traders generally only deal with action figures of a C7 grade or above unless it’s a particularly rare or hard-to-find action figure. The main advantage of the C Scale system is that it is straightforward to use and can be referred to by anyone. It is because of this flexibility and adaptability that it became universally accepted.

The system works fine when dealing with large reputable businesses or established dealers. Still, when dealing with unprofessional dealers or novice collectors, the system’s advantages also become its main flaws. This is because there is no natural way to verify the accuracy of the grading, leaving it open to abuse or misinterpretation, mainly when dealing with collectors selling off their private collections, simply because they cannot give a reliable, independent, unbiased and accurate appraisal of their own action figures’ condition. Also, the massive increase in the use of auction sites, such as eBay, has resulted in the system being abused by unscrupulous sellers who intentionally misrepresent an action figure’s condition or ignore obvious faults to inflate its value.

These factors led to a steep decline in collectors’ confidence in buying figures on the secondary market, which meant that prices and values began to drop as the demand dropped. Because of this frustration and lack of confidence in the secondary market, the professional grading service grew and began to restore confidence in the market.

How to use the C Scale?

The generally accepted grades available in the C Scale and the relevant condition of the carded figure are given below. Please note that this is a GUIDE and, as always, ensure you are dealing with an established or reputable dealer when buying your action figures using the C Scale. Remember, if in doubt, always ask for clarification from the seller, and if he’s unwilling to answer your questions, don’t buy it!

C10 (MINT)

General:
The backing card should be flat with bright, transparent colors and NO creases, tears, or marks. Most cards have a noticeable sheen or “gloss” to them. They should be free from stains, holes (such as a pin or tack holes), writing (unless it’s been autographed), or any other markings.

Edges:
Tight, no fraying or separation.

Corners:
No curling, bends, or creases.
Creases:
None.
Price Tag/Card Surface Tear:
None.
Bubble:
Clear, wholly attached, with no yellowing, crushing, dents, dings, malformations, or cracks of any size. It is essential to check where the bubble meets the carding, as I have known dealers to “reseal” shop display figures back into their original display boxes to be sold as mint items.

C8-9 (NEAR MINT)

General:
The backing card should be flat (or nearly flat) with transparent, bright colors and its original gloss or sheen, and there should be no stains, tears, holes, or writing (again, unless autographed).
Edges:
It should be tight with no fraying or separation.
Corner Curl:
Minimal curling is generally accepted, but there should be no creasing or cracking (i.e., the damage should be so minimal that it could be flattened out without further damage). The damage should be barely noticeable.

C6-7 (FINE)

General:
Some curling and creasing are acceptable, but there should be no cracking of the ink or print. The colors should be reasonably bright, though some of the original sheens may have faded. There should be no significant tears, stains, holes, or writing.
Edges:
It should be primarily tight, although there may be some minor fraying (see glossary) or separation (sections should total less than 1 inch in length).
Corner Curl:
There may be some minor permanent creasing or cracking of print and fraying of the card at the corners (1-2 corners).

C4-5 (GOOD)

General:
There may be permanent curling or creasing of the card, including cracked print or ink. The card may have lost all of its original sheen and brightness, fading to a flat, dull finish, although it will still have color. The card may have minor tears if they are less than 1/2 inch. Also, some stains, writing (including autographs), and small holes may be present (1-3 pinholes or one large hole less than 1/4 inch in diameter).
Edges:
It may have minor fraying or separation (sections should total less than 3 inches in length).
Corner Curl:
Severe or permanent creasing or cracking of the print with severe fraying of card corners (1-4 corners).
Creases:
More severe creases may include cracking of print or ink.
Price Tag/Card Surface Tear:
More giant tears (less than 1/4 inch) are permitted.
Bubble:
A more pronounced discoloring or yellowing may be present, but it should be medium tan and not wholly brown. The bubble should still be primarily attached with no possibility that the figure could have been removed though it may have detached sections smaller than 1 inch. There may be other parts of the card front on the bubble, including tears to the print/ink. The bubble may have cracks of less than 1/4 inch and have pronounced bubble damage, such as crushing or large dents without any reformation.

C2-3 (POOR)

General:
The card may be almost wholly folded over or severely curled or creased, including cracked print and ink. The card’s original sheen or gloss may have completely faded to a flat, dull finish, with the colors severely faded or discolored. The card may also have more pronounced stains (such as water stains), dirt, or more pronounced tears or holes.
Edges:
Pronounced fraying and separation (greater than 3 inches total) may be visible.
Corner Curl:
Severe or permanent creasing and cracking of the print, with severe fraying of card corners (2-4 corners).
Creases:
The card may be permanently creased with cracked print or ink. The card can be almost wholly folded over.
Price Tag/Card Surface Tear:
More pronounced tears on the card surface (1/4 up to 1 inch).
Bubble:
Severe yellowing may be present, and the bubble may be wholly brown or opaque in sections. The bubble should still be attached, though it may be detached on up to two complete sides so that the figure could have been removed and reinserted into the bubble. The detached areas may also have parts of the card front surface, including pronounced tears, in the print ink. The drop may be crushed entirely (if the figure is undamaged), and significant major dents or dings are without reformation. Bubble may have cracks up to an inch in length.

C1 (VERY POOR)

General:
This is the lowest grade available; as such, an action figure given this grade may have a wholly ripped or curled card with permanent creases, and one or more central holes may be present. It may have other stains or marks, and similar damage may also be present. The only reason this has a grade is that the action figure is still attached to the card, no matter how slightly.
Edges:
Severely frayed, split, and separated.
Corner Curl: Corners may be severely curled or torn with permanent creasing and cracking (more than two corners).
Creases: The card may be permanently creased or broken with cracked print or ink, and the card can be folded entirely.
Price Tag/Card Surface Tear:
Large surface tears are present (over 1 inch), signs of the price tag are removed, etc.
Bubble:
Completely discolored a brown or dark yellow and may be cloudy or opaque totally or in part. Large cracks (larger than 2 inches) are present and possibly detached from the card. The bubble may have been crushed or severely damaged.

(Source AFR)

At ASC, we are so confident in our assessment skills that if you wish to challenge our assessment, you are welcome to send the item to a registered grading authority such as “AFA.” Suppose the item is assessed any lower than 75 or 7.5, depending on the grading authority. In that case, we will repurchase the figure from you and pay all the grading costs, including shipping and replace your item if another is in stock; if not, you will be given a store credit for the original purchase price.